We’ll put the siding on next, and then put the trim over the top and caulk along the inside of the window. Hi, I’m Bill with Advanced Home Exteriors. We’re still in our house in Wharton County today, and we’ve moved out into the garage area. And the house being over 80-years-old, there was a lot of water penetration damage along the bottom plates and along some of the windows because the windows were leaking. So part of it was that we had to replace all the bottom plates and replace the rotted framing members. The windows the way they were originally set were set too far in, which added to the problem of why the windows were leaking. They weren’t being able to be flashed properly. So since we had this opportunity, the homeowner allowed us to go ahead and reset the windows out an inch and a quarter, which allowed us to make up for the plywood sheathing that we were setting, as well as wrap the windows properly in window tape and install the trim and flashing properly.
Okay, so moving from the inside of the garage out to the outside, we’ve now moved the window out an inch and a quarter farther outside the wall, which allows us to properly install the vapor barrier and the window flashing, which allows us to seal. We’ll put the siding on next, and then put the trim over the top and caulk along the inside of the window. That prevents the water from penetrating like it did in the old house, which rotted out all the framing members that we just replaced. Here’s a finished window with the trim installed that hasn’t been thoroughly caulked yet, but the siding goes and butts up against the window. The trim goes on top of the siding, which leaves us a little area here to caulk the window before we paint, which adds another level of protection against water penetration. The last thing is there’s a piece of metal flashing that goes up behind this siding, comes out over the one by four and down on the outside, which keeps the water shedding off the siding outside of the window so that it does not get behind the one by four.